Third Order

The cathedral, began life as a Franciscan friary, founded by Hernán Cortés in 1529. Work started on the fortress-like complex in 1533. The side portal of the church has a fine colonial-Plateresque façade with, above the gable, the symbols of a crown, cross, skull and bones framed by an alfiz.

During restoration of the cathedral interior in the 1950s, some early murals were uncovered depicting the departure of 24 Mexican Franciscan friars, embarking at the start of their missionary journey to Japan, and their subsequent martyrdom on the cross in 1597. Among them was Mexico's only saint, San Felipe de Jesús.

The Chapel of the Third Order, at the rear of the monastery building, has a very typical Mexican Baroque façade, embellished with a small figure representing Hernán Cortés. Like the chapel's lovely carved wooden altar (1735), the façade shows strong Indian influence.

Adjoining the cathedral stands the spacious Open Chapel, its vaulting supported on three arches. Two buttresses reinforce the central columns. Remains of murals showing the lineage of the Franciscan order can be seen in the cloister.

Every Sunday a folk mass is celebrated in the cathedral to the accompaniment of mariachi music.

If you wish you can see another views of this magnificent building here and here.

Today in Sketches of Cities : Vienna

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Cuernavaca

Cuernavaca is the capital and largest city of the state of Morelos in Mexico. Established at the archeological site of Gualupita I by the Olmecs, "the mother culture" of Mesoamerica, approximately 3200 years ago. It is also a municipality located about 85 km (53 mi) south of Mexico City on the D-95 freeway.

The city was nicknamed the "City of Eternal Spring" by Alexander von Humboldt in the 19th century. It has long been a favorite escape for Mexico City and foreign visitors because of this warm, stable climate and abundant vegetation. Aztec emperors had summer residences there, and even today many famous people as well as Mexico City residents maintain homes there. Cuernavaca is also host to a large foreign resident population, including large numbers of students who come to study the Spanish language.

The name "Cuernavaca" is derived from the Nahuatl phrase Cuauhnahuac, and means "surrounded by or close to trees." The name was eventually Hispanicized to Cuernavaca because the Spanish could not pronounce the Nahuatl name. The coat-of-arms of the municipality consists of a tree trunk with three branches with foliage, and four roots colored red. There is a cut in the trunk in the form of a mouth, from which emerges a grey swirl.

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Beautiful Danger

Popocatepetl is an active volcano and, at 5,426 m (17,802 ft), the second highest peak in Mexico after the Pico de Orizaba (5,636 m/18,491 ft). Popocatepetl is linked to the Iztaccihuatl volcano to the north by the high saddle known as the Paso de Cortés, and lies in the eastern half of the Trans-Mexican volcanic belt.

The name Popocatepetl comes from the Nahuatl words popōca 'it smokes' and tepētl 'mountain', thus Smoking Mountain; the name Don Goyo comes from the mountain's association in the lore of the region with San Gregorio (St. Gregory), "Goyo" being a nickname-like short form of Gregorio.

Popocatepetl is 70 km (43 mi) southeast of Mexico City, from where it can be seen regularly, depending on atmospheric conditions. The residents of Puebla, a mere 40 km (25 mi) east of the volcano, enjoy the views of the snowy and glacier-clad mountain almost all year long. The volcano is also one of the three tall peaks in Mexico to contain glaciers, the others being Iztaccihuatl and Pico de Orizaba.

Popocatepetl is one of the most violent volcanoes in Mexico, having had more than 20 major eruptions since the arrival of the Spanish in 1519. A major eruption occurred in 1947 to begin this cycle of activity. Then, on December 21, 1994, the volcano spewed gas and ash which was carried as far as 25 km (16 mi) away by prevailing winds. The activity prompted the evacuation of nearby towns and scientists to begin monitoring for an eruption. In December 2000, tens of thousands of people were evacuated by the government based on the warnings of scientists. The volcano then made its largest display in 1200 years. [Wiki]

Iztaccíhuatl

A legend tells the tale that many years before Cortés came to Mexico, the Aztecs lived in Tenochtitlán, today's Mexico City. The chief of the Aztecs had a beautiful daughter named Iztaccíhuatl.  The people were enchanted with Izta and her parents prepared her to someday be the Empress of the Aztecs. Izta grew up and fell in love with a captain of a tribe named Popocatépetl or Popoca. Popoca asked for the Emperor's permission to marry his daughter and he agreed to the arrangement under one condition: in order to marry his Izta, Popoca had to bring the head of an enemy chief back from the war.

Popoca went off to fulfill his destiny. Several months passed and an adversary of Popoca sent a false message back to Izta that her loved one had died in battle. When Izta heard her lover's fate she was overcome by the news, refused to eat and died of grief.

Popoca returned victorious, but upon hearing of Izta's passing he could not be consoled. He carried his beloved to the mountains and put her down to rest, then plunged a dagger in his broken heart. The gods covered them with snow and changed them into famous peaks in Mexico. Together in eternity are Iztaccíhuatl's mountain "La Mujer Dormida" (Sleeping Woman), and Popocatépetl's volcano, still active today raining fire on Earth in blind rage at the loss of his beloved. [Wiki]

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Road of Silence

“After silence, that which comes nearest to expressing the inexpressible is Music.”

~Aldous Huxley

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The Borda Garden III

The Borda Garden is one of the most famous monuments in Cuernavaca, it was the residence of rich families since the colonial times, it was chosen by its location beside the Cathedral of Cuernavaca and by its main road (now Morelos Avenue); this road comes from Acapulco, crosses Cuernavaca, Mexico City and ends in Veracruz. 

By this road passed the richness the Nao of the Orient brought to New Spain and also was the residence where many famous travelers were lodged. Don Jose Borda was the builder of the residence, he also donated to Taxco the beautiful Santa Prisca church and its Parvis Square. Don Jose de la Borda used this residence such as rest home and rest of silver caravans that came from Taxco to Mexico City.

Incidental News from The Allmusic Blog:

News Roundup: 9/20/2010

September 20th, 2010 | 4:38 pm est | Heather Phares

A bust of Frank Zappa was brought to the pioneering musician’s hometown of Baltimore, MD on Sunday. A replica of a statue erected in a public square in Vilnius, Lithuania, the bust was donated to Baltimore by Lithuanian Zappa fans. The statue was dedicated in a ceremony that coincided with the 25th anniversary of Zappa’s testimony before Congress on freedom of expression for recording artists, and included Baltimore mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake, Zappa’s widow and three of his children, the mayor of Vilinus and Saulius Paukstys, the longtime president of a Lithuanian Zappa fan club who commissioned the original statue. The bust was placed on a 12-foot steel pole outside of an East Baltimore library; afterward, Dweezil Zappa’s band Zappa Plays Zappa performed. [Billboard.com]

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The Borda Garden I

The Borda Garden is one of the most famous monuments in Cuernavaca, it was the residence of rich families since the colonial times, it was chosen by its location beside the Cathedral of Cuernavaca and by its main road (now Morelos Avenue); this road comes from Acapulco, crosses Cuernavaca, Mexico City and ends in Veracruz. 

By this road passed the richness the Nao of the Orient brought to New Spain and also was the residence where many famous travelers were lodged. Don Jose Borda was the builder of the residence, he also donated to Taxco the beautiful Santa Prisca church and its Parvis Square. Don Jose de la Borda used this residence such as rest home and rest of silver caravans that came from Taxco to Mexico City.

Manuel de la Borda, his son, was appointed priest and was the first person in charge of the Santa Prisca church, at the death of his father, he already lived in the residence. Don Manuel made the gardens that in that time was extended until the ravine. The gardens received the name of Botanical Gardens, by its varieties of fruit trees and ornamental plants that were brought from all over the world. The mangos were brought by the travelers priest that came from the Spanish Philippines.

In the same way Manuel built the fountains and the paths, and in 1783 he inaugurated the ornamental lake, to water the Botanic Gardens. Manuel de la Borda also built the Chapel of Guadalupe in 1784, near the gardens and the residence; this church originally had two beautiful towers. It was also famous by the books and articles that the important visitors who were lodged here, wrote about the same.

The residence never lost its attraction for the rich and important persons and in 1865 the Emperors Maximilian of Hapsburg and Carlota Amalia, chosen this place as their summer residence, and then it took again a category of simple elegance.

The Emperors offered spectacular Gala Receptions in the Gardens and in the ornamental lake. The rooms were decorated with luxury as the Chapel of Guadalupe; you can still see the personal shield of the Austria Emperors, in the reception room, the residence is know as "The Borda Gardens". Nowadays  the morelenses celebrate great receptions, popular feasts, cultural events among others. [Tour by Mexico.com]

Happy Sunday!
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Rural Church

Laïcité

In French, laïcité (pronounced [la.isiˈte]) is a concept of a secular society, connoting the absence of religious involvement in government affairs as well as absence of government involvement in religious affairs. During the twentieth century, it evolved to mean equal treatment of all religions, although a more restrictive interpretation of the term has developed since 2004. Dictionaries ordinarily translate laïcité as secularity or secularism (the latter being the political system), although it is sometimes rendered in English as "laicity" or "laicism".

In its strict and official acceptance, it is the principle of separation of church (or religion) and state. Etymologically, laïcité comes from the Greek λαϊκός (laïkós "of the people", "layman"). [Wiki]

Laicismo

Laicismo es la corriente de pensamiento, ideología, movimiento político, legislación o política de gobierno que defiende, favorece o impone la existencia de una sociedad organizada aconfesionalmente, es decir, de forma independiente, o en su caso ajena a las confesiones religiosas. Su ejemplo más representativo es el "Estado laico" o "no confesional". El término "laico" (del griego λαϊκός, laikós - "alguien del pueblo", de la raíz λαός, laós - "pueblo") aparece primeramente en un contexto cristiano.

El concepto de "Estado laico", opuesto al de "Estado confesional", surgió históricamente de la Separación Iglesia-Estado que tuvo lugar en Francia a finales del siglo XIX, aunque la separación entre las instituciones del estado y las iglesias u organizaciones religiosas se ha producido, en mayor o menor medida, en otros momentos y lugares, normalmente vinculada a la Ilustración y a la Revolución liberal.

Los laicistas consideran que su postura garantiza la libertad de conciencia además de la no imposición de las normas y valores morales particulares de ninguna religión o de la irreligión. El laicismo es distinto del anticlericalismo en cuanto no condena la existencia de dichos valores religiosos. [Wiki]

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Tehuacan

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Path of the Sleepwalker

We have to learn the desperate faith of sleep-walkers
who rise out of their calm beds
and walk through the skin of another life.
We have to drink the stupefying cup of darkness
and wake up to ourselves, nourished and surprised.

Edward Hirsch
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Near The City

If I want to do anything, I want to speak a more universal language.
Seventy Thousand Assyrians 1934. William Saroyan.
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Telamon / Atlante

Kings, Warriors or Gods
The Atlantes at Tula are four colossal statues almost five meters in height which were discovered in a pyramid located in the archaeological zone of Tula, Hidalgo, located 40 miles from Mexico City.
Some legends tell that the Toltecs, after mysteriously abandoning the city of Teotihuacan, built a replica that would later become the capital of Toltec culture. This city was named Tollan, which for many years was ruled by a dynasty of kings, priests and warriors, descendents of Quetzalcoatl (the feathered serpent, ancient god of Teotihuacan and protector of culture and civilization). Such is the case of Toptzin, who ascended the Toltec throne, took the name of Quetzalcoatl and consecrated himself to its service. The name of Quetzalcoatl as god and Quetzalcoatl as king is said to have caused much confusion throughout Mexican history.
In present day the city of Tollan is known for its great pyramid Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli, or The Temple of The Morning Star, whose summit holds the famous Atlantes of Tula. They are representations of gods, warriors or Toltec kings that are believed to have been the pillars of a former wooden roof on the temple. One can climb up this pyramid to observe the Atlantes up close and appreciate the complex archeological treasures.
The Atlantes of Tula measure approximately 4.96 m in height by 90 cm in width. Each one is formed by four sections or blocks of wood that represent human figures. The first section represents the head, which is found covered by a headdress of feathers. The second and third sections form what would be the body, and the fourth and last were the legs and feet. It is worth mentioning that only a few of these statues have survived the passage of time, so several of them have been restored.
In regard of the “clothing” of these colossuses, the objects of great size that appear over the ears of the figures grab the attention; the chest is covered by a great plaque with the figure of a human being. The Atlantes also show anatomical differences in their faces despite maintaining the same expression, which bestows each one with a unique personality. Warriors, kings, gods and more are some classifications used to identify the Atlantes. Each one of the Atlantes holds an object in its right hand. It is known that the Toltecs were an artistic, wise and cultured people, but they were also warriors. Among their weapons was the Atl-Atl, which shot darts and arrows with lightly curved edges; however, according the current knowledge and discoveries made up to this moment, the Toltecs brandished the Atl-Atl in the left hand and not in the right like the figures of the Atlantes appear to be doing. In one of the pillars found next to the giant figures, appears the figure in relief of an individual who carries on his back a backpack or container with a sort of flame shooting out a stone. This has led some to suppose that the object the Atlantes carry is a flame thrower or blowtorch.
The legends also tell that the Toltecs, in their march toward the south led by Quetzalcoatl, arrived at Chichen-Itza (an archeological zone located in the Yucatan Peninsula) where they built a new capital fusing with the Mayan culture and tradition. The city of Tollan, in its age of decadence in the 13th century, was occupied by the Aztecs who came from the North.
The archeological zone of Tula gives visitors the opportunity to appreciate in an instant a chapter of the glorious past of the Toltecs. Despite the fact that this zone is not considered one of the most important in Mexico, it is worth visiting the city of Tollan, which has a great relevance in the history of Mesoamerica and constitutes a link in the chain of civilization of the central high plateau of Mexico.
Information was taken from “A Guide to Unknown Mexico No. 62 Hidalgo,” Sept. to Oct. 2000.

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Best Photo of 2009

El Rodeo Lagoon from Xochicalco Archaeological Ruins

Xochicalco Eagle

Do anything, but let it produce joy.
From "Tropic of Cancer" by Henry Miller.
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Underworld

Temple of The Feathered Serpent
Xochicalco is a pre-Columbian archaeological site in the western part of the Mexican state of Morelos. The name Xochicalco may be translated from Nahuatl as "in the (place of the) house of Flowers". The site is located 38 km southwest of Cuernavaca, about 76 miles by road from Mexico City. The site is open to visitors all week, from 10am to 5pm, although access to the observatory is only allowed after noon. The apogee of Xochicalco came after the fall of Teotihuacan and it has been speculated that Xochicalco may have played a part in the fall of the Teotihuacan empire.

The architecture and iconography of Xochicalco show affinities with Teotihuacan, the Maya area, and the Matlatzinca culture of the Toluca Valley.
The main ceremonial center is atop an artificially leveled hill, with remains of residential structures, mostly unexcavated, on long terraces covering the slopes. The site was first occupied by 200 BC, but did not develop into an urban center until the Epiclassic period (A.D. 700 - 900). Nearly all the standing architecture at the site was built at this time. At its peak, the city may have had a population of up to 20,000 people.

Of special interest are sculptured reliefs on the sides of some buildings. The Temple of the Feathered Serpent has fine stylized depictions of that deity in a style which includes apparent influences of Teotihuacan and Maya art. It has been speculated that Xochicalco may have had a community of artists from other parts of Mesoamerica.

Other monuments at the site include several other step-pyramid temples, palaces, three ballcourts, sweat-baths, an unusual row of circular altars, and a cave with steps carved down into it. The site also has some free-standing sculptured stelae; others were removed from their original location and are now on display in the INAH museum in Mexico City and at the site museum.

At some point around A.D. 900 the city of Xochicalco was burned and destroyed. Many of the excavated houses and temples have layers of burning and destruction that cover the deposits from the main Epiclassic occupation. Underneath destruction layers, numerous objects were left in place in the houses, indicating that the site was destroyed and abandoned quickly. A small remnant population lived on, however, on the lower slopes of the hill. Later, around A.D. 1200, the site was recolonized by the Nahuatl-speaking Tlahuica peoples, ancestors to the Nahuatl-speaking populations of the modern state of Morelos.

Xochicalco is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a tourist destination. The site also has a well-stocked museum, designed by noted Mexican architect Roland Dada. [Wiki]
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Desierto de los Leones 2

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Desierto de los Leones 1

The Desierto de los Leones (Desert of the Lions) National Park is located entirely within the limits of the Federal District, it is located in the Sierra de las Cruces mountain range west of the city center with an area of 1,867 hectares, representing fifteen percent of the entire Valley of Mexico. The area was used as a retreat for a religious group, thus the name Desierto (Desert) means not "arid place", but not populated. The "Leones" part of the name does not refer to the animals, but rather to the original landlord's lastname.

The park's altitude varies between 2,600 and 3,700 meters above sea level, giving the area a relatively cold and damp climate. It is a forested area primarily with pines, oyamel firs and holm oaks with many brooks, ravines and waterfalls. The park is considered to be the oldest protected biosphere in Mexico. It was originally declared a forest reserve in 1876 by President Lerdo de Tejada with the intent of conserving its fresh water springs to supply Mexico City. It was later declared a national park on 27 November, 1917, by President Venustiano Carranza.

The name of the park, Desierto de los Leones (Desert of the Lions) largely comes from the Carmelite monastery situated just north of its center. Carmelite monks called their residences “deserts” because they served as isolation from the mundane world. The monastery’s original name was Santo Desierto de Nuestra Señora del Carmen de los Montes de Santa Fe.
The monastery was built in the very early 17th century for a group of Carmelite monks who came from Italy to evangelize the Native Americans. The first stone was laid on 23 January 1606 by then-Viceroy Juan de Mendoza y Luna. It was a relatively simple structure of two stories, with a wood shingle roof, narrow corridors and small rooms called “cells” for the monks to sleep and study in. A 12,570 meter wall was built with only one opening facing the town of Cuajimalpa which still remains.

Outside the main gate of the monastery, just beyond the traces of the walls of the original monastery, is the “Chapel of Secrets.” It has a domed roof and its acoustics allowed monks face into the corner to speak to another monk during the long stretches of imposed silence in the monastery. Surrounding the entire complex is the “Barda de la Excomunicacion” (Wall of Excommunication) named so because supposedly any woman that crossed it was subject to excommunication from the Catholic Church. [Wiki]
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La Casa del Mago / The Magician's House

“You live eighty years, and at best you get about six minutes of pure magic”
George Carlin
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Xochicalco

Rodeo Lake

Temple of the Feathered Serpent

The Path

Xochicalco Eagle

The Xochicalco archaeological site which is located about 38 Kms. from Cuernavaca, by way of the Alpuyeca exit of the Mexico-Acapulco Highway 95.

Xochicalco was founded in about 650 AD by the Olmeca-Xicallanca, which are a Mayan group of traders from Campeche, giving them an excellent position along several of the major Mesoamerican trade routes. It was an important fortressed commercial and religious center in the period of time following the decline of the great Meso-American city states. Its name means "Place Of The Flowers."

The main part of Xochicalco is located 132 mts (430 ft) above the valley. Its' underground solar observatory is one of the main attractions for visitors to the site. When the sun passes through its zenith on May 14th and 15th and July 28th and 29th, a ray of sunlight passes through a narrow shaft in the ceiling of the observatory and projects itself upon the floor.

Another main attraction is the Quetzalcoatl pyramid, or Temple of the Feathered Serpent, which features friezes depicting the Plumed Serpent God coiling around the sides. This structure measures 21 by 19 meters at its base and 17 meters in height and is situated in what is known as Xochicalco's Main Acropolis.

Of special interest are sculptured reliefs on the sides of some buildings. The Temple of the Feathered Serpent has fine stylized depictions of that deity in a style which includes apparent influences of Teotihuacan and Maya art.
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El Potrero

El Potrero, a little village near Mexico City, to have a lunch, picnic, ride bike or a horse, walk, jog, read or just sit and look the beauty of the place.
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El Rodeo

A view of El Rodeo Lagoon from Xochicalco.
Xochicalco ("sho-chee-cal-co") is a pre-Columbian archaeological site in the western part of the Mexican state of Morelos. The name Xochicalco may be translated from Nahuatl as "in the (place of the) house of Flowers". The site is located 38 km southwest of Cuernavaca, about 76 miles by road from Mexico City. The site is open to visitors all week, from 10am to 5pm, although access to the observatory is only allowed after noon. The apogee of Xochicalco came after the fall of Teotihuacan and it has been speculated that Xochicalco may have played a part in the fall of the Teotihuacan empire. It has been speculated that Xochicalco may have had a community of artists from other parts of Mesoamerica.

The architecture and iconography of Xochicalco show affinities with Teotihuacan, the Maya area, and the Matlatzinca culture of the Toluca Valley. Today some residents of the nearby village of Cuentepec speak Nahuatl.

The main ceremonial center is atop an artificially leveled hill, with remains of residential structures, mostly unexcavated, on long terraces covering the slopes. The site was first occupied by 200 BC, but did not develop into an urban center until the Epiclassic period (A.D. 700 - 900). Nearly all the standing architecture at the site was built at this time. At its peak, the city may have had a population of up to 20,000 people. [Wiki]

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Lightness and Darkness

Besides flu, earth tremors, worst politics, etc, there is skies and life everywhere. Thanks a lot for your kind words of concern about the city.
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